CAN CLEANSERS MAKE OR BREAK YOUR ROUTINE?

Cleansing might seem like the simplest step in your skincare routine, but it is one of the most important. A well-formulated cleanser does more than remove dirt and oil—it sets the stage for every other product in your routine to work effectively.  I am not going to talk about formulas, as I am not an expert on that one, and two, formulas have advanced so much! The right cleanser can help prevent breakouts, reduce irritation, maintain a healthy skin barrier, and even slow signs of aging.

The problem is that not all cleansers are created equal. Choosing the wrong one can do more harm than good. If you have ever felt super irritated after washing your face, or noticed that your skincare products do not seem to be working, your cleanser could be the culprit. I hope to enlighten you on an underrated step, and what makes a cleanser effective, common mistakes to avoid, and how to find the right one for your skin’s changing needs.

Why Cleansing is Essential

Throughout the day, your skin accumulates oil, sweat, dead skin cells, and environmental pollutants (not talked about enough). Simply rinsing with water is not enough to remove these impurities. Cleansing is such a vital step in:

• Preparing your skin for serums and moisturizers so they absorb more effectively
• Preventing clogged pores and breakouts
• Maintaining the skin barrier by supporting hydration and pH balance
• Removing environmental pollutants that contribute to premature aging
• Managing chronic conditions like Rosacea and Melasma

Skipping cleansing, especially at night, can leave your skin dull and congested. Granted, that may not always be the case for everyone, stay with me here....if you have a skin condition, please cleanse! I have experienced this firsthand, if I skip washing my face after a long shift because I am too tired, I pay for it the next day. Like clockwork! Anything brewing under my skin comes to the surface, and my complexion looks dull from the buildup of dead skin cells that should have been shed. That glow you see? It takes effort, I work hard for it, and it starts with cleansing.

Your Skin is Dynamic—Your Cleanser Should Be Too

One of the biggest misconceptions about skincare is the idea of fixed "skin types." The truth is that skin is constantly changing based on factors such as:

• Seasonal and environmental changes
• Stress levels and sleep quality
• Travel and water quality
• Diet, hydration, and nutritional deficiencies
• Active ingredients in your routine, such as retinoids, exfoliants, or acne treatments

This means that the cleanser that works for you in winter may not be ideal for summer, and if you are using strong actives in your routine, a basic cleanser will not be enough. Instead, you need one that helps restore hydration and protect the skin barrier to prevent irritation and excessive normal reactions that may come with actives. 

How to Choose the Right Cleanser

Not all cleansers work the same way. Some focus on deep cleaning, while others prioritize hydration and skin barrier support. Your cleanser should align with the rest of your skincare routine and your skin’s current needs.

Cleansers are not just about removing dirt, they interact with your skin on a deeper level. Many cleansing myths still circulate, such as the idea that foaming cleansers are inherently harsh or that all sulfates should be avoided. The reality is, formulation matters more than individual ingredients.

Older cleansers used harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which could strip the skin and cause irritation. While SLS is a strong surfactant and can be irritating at high concentrations or with prolonged exposure, it is widely used in personal care products at safe, controlled levels. The key concern—skin irritation—depends on the formulation rather than just the presence of SLS. Well-formulated cleansers often include co-surfactants and conditioning agents to mitigate irritation. Additionally, claims linking SLS to carcinogenicity, toxicity, or organ accumulation are not supported by scientific evidence. If someone finds SLS drying or irritating, they can opt for milder surfactants, but don't fall for marketing around "SLS-free" claims is often misleading.

All in all, when choosing a cleanser, consider how your skin is behaving right now rather than sticking to a rigid "skin type."

Foaming cleansers: are often ideal for oily or acne-prone skin, as they help break down excess oil and clear out pores. Modern versions are much gentler than older formulations that relied on harsh sulfates. Gel cleansers offer a similar deep clean but tend to be less drying, making them a better fit for combination or sensitive skin. If your skin leans dry or reactive, cream and milk cleansers are a better option. Their lotion-like texture helps maintain hydration while cleansing, making them especially useful for those using strong actives like retinoids or acids.

For those who wear makeup regularly, an oil cleanser or balm is a game changer. These work by dissolving oil-based impurities without stripping the skin, and they’re especially effective as part of a double-cleansing routine. Micellar water can be useful for quick refreshes or travel, but it shouldn’t replace a proper cleanser, as it often leaves residue behind.

More specialized cleansers include powder cleansers, which are activated by water and offer customizable exfoliation, and exfoliating cleansers that contain ingredients like glycolic or lactic acid to help slough off dead skin. These shouldn’t be used daily, as over-exfoliation can damage the skin barrier. Solid bar cleansers can work well, but it’s important to choose syndet (synthetic detergent) bars rather than traditional soaps, which often have a high pH and can be too harsh.

The best cleanser for you depends on what your skin needs at the moment. If it feels tight or irritated after washing, your cleanser may be too harsh. If you feel like it’s not cleansing enough, consider adjusting your formula or adding a double cleanse. Cleansing is the first step in setting up your skin for success—choose wisely.

Common Cleansing Mistakes

1. Over-washing: Yes, cleansing too often or with a harsh cleanser can strip the skin, but it’s also important to note that some people may not need a morning cleanse at all. For many, just rinsing with water is enough.
2. Using water that is too hot: This is correct—hot water can weaken the skin barrier and cause irritation. It also allows surfactants to penetrate deeper into the skin, which can increase dryness and irritation.
3. Choosing the wrong cleanser: Not all cleansers work the same way, and picking one that is too harsh or too mild can affect the skin barrier. Additionally, some surfactants are gentler than others, so a cleanser’s formula matters more than whether it foams or not.
4. Rushing the cleansing step: While you don’t need to leave cleanser on for long, ensuring you massage it properly helps break down oil and debris more effectively. However, leaving it on too long without movement doesn’t provide additional benefits.
5. Using cleansing wipes as a substitute for cleansing: Wipes are convenient but don’t cleanse the skin thoroughly. They often leave behind surfactants that can disrupt the skin barrier and lead to irritation.
6. Not rinsing micellar water properly: Micellar waters contain surfactants, and while some claim they don’t need rinsing, they can still disrupt the skin barrier over time. It’s best to rinse them off if possible.
7. Ignoring skin condition changes: Just because a cleanser worked for you in the past doesn’t mean it will always be the best choice. Factors like weather, stress, and skincare routines can change what your skin needs

Cleansing is often overlooked, but it is the first step in achieving healthy, glowing skin. The right cleanser does more than just remove impurities—it nourishes, restores, and protects, setting the foundation for resilient skin. When choosing a cleanser, think of it as part of your treatment plan, not just a step to get through. 

What is your go-to cleanser? Have you noticed a difference when you switched up your cleansing routine? Let’s talk in the comments.

References:

Wong M. Are You Washing Your Face Wrong? Busting Cleanser Myths. Lab Muffin Beauty Science. July 19, 2021. Accessed February 11, 2025. https://labmuffin.com/are-you-washing-your-face-wrong-busting-cleanser-myths-with-video/